Notorious RBG Cowl
This is my tribute to the late, great RBG. She was a powerful force.
Wanna crochet your own? Well, the directions are all here-for free!
Materials
We Crochet Palette (fingering weight yarn) 100%Peruvian Highland Wool, 231 yds/50g; 1 skein each of Rainforest Heather (MC) and Mist (CC). You may need to unravel your swatch in order to have enough yarn.
Tools
Size C (2.75mm) and Size D (3.25mm) Hook (or sizes needed to obtain gauge)
Stitch marker
Tapestry/yarn needle
Gauge
One stitch repeat of Chart B worked with larger hook measures 1 5/8” across Round 1, and 2 1/4” across Round 22. Rounds 1-22 of chart = 4.75” tall. (See notes).
Finished Measurements
Cowl measures 20” in circumference at top edge, 32” in circumference at bottom edge, and 9 1/4” tall.
Special Stitches
Extended single crochet (esc): Insert hook into next st, yo and pull up loop, yo and pull through just one loop, yo and pull through two loops.
Working through front loops only: Instead of working under both loops like normal, work under only the front loops (leaving the back loops free).
Working from the colorwork chart
On stitch before color change, work last YO with new color. Carry Color not in use along the top edge of work and crochet around it (encasing it) as you work. Make sure that the yarn you are carrying does not constrict your stitches. Every few stitches after a color change, pull on the end of the carried yarn, so that you know it is not too loose, then, pull on the fabric so that you know it is not too tight. When you need to change colors drop the old color and pick up the new color. Always drop the darker color to the back, and the lighter color to the front, to avoid tangling the yarn. Always read chart from bottom to top and right to left if right-handed (or left to right if left handed).
What’s up with the swirly boxes?
The swirly boxes in Chart B are a placeholder- they are not a stitch. Skip over the swirly boxes when reading the chart; DO NOT skip a stitch in your cowl. When you need to make an increase, work 2 esc sts into the working st. For example, in Round 6 of chart B, work two CC esc into the first st of each repeat. You will also need to work one CC and one MC into the 7th st of repeat. Likewise, when working Round 19 of Chart B of chart, work one CC esc and one MC esc in 2nd st of each rep. You will also need to work one MC and one CC in 7th stitch of Repeat.
Notes
Making a swatch of the colorwork is the best way to know if your cowl will be the right size. If you can’t stand making swatches (I hear ya) then read on ahead for other ways to check your gauge. Also: you may need to unravel your swatch in order to have enough yarn.
To make a color work gauge swatch: Ch 19 with larger hook. Change to smaller hook. Beg with second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, esc in next 18 sts. Place st marker in first esc of row. Being careful not to twist ch, bring marked stitch next to last st worked. Beginning with marked st esc in each st around. Continue to work in the round without joins (in a spiral). Change to larger hook. Work Rounds 1-22 of Chart B in esc for 3 repeats. Flatten and block swatch so that one repeat can be measured. One stitch repeat measures 1 5/8” in round 1 of colorwork, and 2 1/4” in Round 22. Colorwork rounds 1-22 measure 4.75”.
If you are a gauge cheater, please pay special attention to the following tips: After working Round 4 of Cowl directions, check to see if top edge of cowl measures about 20” in circumference. Once you determine the correct hook size for the top edge of cowl, switch to one size larger for colorwork. Pay attention to gauge after switching to colorwork. It should remain the same (not constrict or stretch out previous rounds). It is common for color work gauge to be worked slightly tighter than non-colorwork stitches. (This is why a larger hook is used for colorwork section). However, since everyone crochets differently it is also possible for the opposite to be true.
Cowl is worked in the round without joins from the top down. Cowl features a self-hem at the top and bottom edges.
Directions
With larger hook and MC, ch 109. (Using a larger hook here allows the cowl to stretch).
Change to smaller hook.
Set-up row: Beg with second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain esc in next 108 sts. Place st marker in first esc of row.
Round 1: Being careful not to twist ch, bring marked stitch next to last st worked. Beginning with marked st esc in each st around. Continue to work in the round without joins (in a spiral).
Rounds 2-4: Esc around -108 sts. Use stitch marker to keep track of beginning of rounds.
Round 5 (self-hem round pictured above): Fold edge of work in half holding foundation chain directly behind working round. Working through both edges at the same time, esc around -108 sts.
Do not fasten off. Change to larger hook in preparation for colorwork.
Rounds 6-10: Continuing in esc, work Rounds 1-5 from Chart A. Chart will be repeated three times each round. (See notes about working from a chart.)
Cut CC yarn.
Change to smaller hook in preparation for working solid color.
Rounds 11-14: Work 4 Rounds of esc.
Change to larger hook in preparation for colorwork.
Rounds 15-40: Continuing in Esc, work Rounds 1-26 from Chart B. Chart will be repeated 12 times around cowl. Note that there are increases on round 6 and round 19. There are 132 sts after working Round 6 of chart, and 156 sts after working Round 19. Cut MC yarn.
Continue using larger hook to further enlarge bottom of cowl.
Rounds 41-42: Continuing with CC yarn, Work 2 rounds of esc.
Round 43: Next round (hem-preparation round): Esc around through front loops only (see notes).
Rounds 44-47: Work 4 more rounds of esc
Above photo shows self hem in progress (through both loops as normal).
Last Round (self hem pictured above): fold edge of work in half with un-used loops (created during hem preparation round) directly behind working round. Working through back loops of working round and at the same time through un-used loops (from hem-prep round) Sl st around. Note: take care to keep sl sts loose enough that bottom edge of cowl is not constricted and can still stretch.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.