Free Crochet Patterns

Blink Beanie

Sometimes after finishing a project that used a bunch of brain-power I just wanna coast a bit through my next project. It still has to be fun and exciting, mind you, but it can’t involve much thinking. This hat checks all the boxes, and best of all goes from hook to head in less than one movie. Did you hear that procrastinators? You can still make this a handmade holiday!

If you’ve ever crocheted with a super bulky yarn before, you probably know that your work can get really stiff really quick. You can avoid this problem by going up a few hook sizes for added drape… but then you have sizable holes between your stitches and HEY some of us live in Minnesota. We can’t be walking around with big holes in our hats in the wintertime! So I did a LOT of swatching to find the perfect chunky-yarn stitch pattern: the yarn-over-slip-stitch through the back loop. OMG I am so totally in looooove with this stitch. It’s stretchy, returns back to shape remarkably well, and has enough drape to make a hat- not a helmet– when worked up tightly enough to avoid the big-hole blues. YUSSSSS!

Okay I know the name of this stitch pattern has a lot going on, but I promise it’s super easy! This is an advanced-beginner level project, but for you seasoned crocheters out there: you won’t get bored. You’ll be like: oh cool, a chunky hat! Oh this is fun- a new stitch- and it really is stretchy, just like Brenda said it would be! Oh interesting- there are short rows to shape the top! And wheeeeeee! it’s done. Now I need to make another one. Because it’s that fun! (Well that was what happened to me anyway).

So here ya go- all of the directions are right here!

Materials
Approximately 88 yds of super bulky weight yarn. I used We Crochet Tuff Puff: 100% Wool, 44 yds/100g; 2 skeins per hat, shown in colors Chartreuse #28058 and Cactus Blossom #28057 (See notes regarding pom-pom yardage).

About 1 yard of embroidery floss (or thin yarn) in similar color for pom-pom tie

Tools
Size P (11.50 mm) hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Tapestry/yarn needle
3.5” piece of cardboard (for pompom)

Gauge
6 sts and 6 rows =4” in yo-sl-st blo patt.
OR: Work hat directions through Row 4. Piece measures 10” wide and 2.75” tall including foundation chain (see photos)

Finished Measurements
Hat measures 18.75 (21.25)” in circumference, and 10” tall. Chartreuse hat (21.25”) was modeled on 22” head.

Special Stitches
Working into the bottom of the chain: work under the horizontal dashes (directly opposite the “v”s that you normally work into).

Yo-sl-st: Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up loop and then pull loop through both loops on hook (1 yo-sl-st made).Working through back loops only: Instead of working under both loops like normal, work under only the back loops (leaving the front loops free).

Working through back loops only (blo): Instead of working under both loops like normal, work under only the back loops (leaving the front loops free).

Abbreviations:
Blo= back loop only
Ch= chain
Sl st= slip stitch
St(s)= stitch(es)
Yo = yarn over
Yo-sl-st = yarn over slip stitch (see Special stitches above)

Notes:
2 skeins of Tuff Puff are enough for one hat (including pompom), however if you want a contrasting pompom, you will need 2 skeins of main color and additional yarn for the contrasting pom pom (aprox 16 yds). The larger size hat will have a slightly smaller pompom as there are fewer leftovers after making the hat. The Chartreuse hat pictured is the larger size and the Cactus Blossom hat is the smaller size. This means that the pompom made from the leftovers of the Chartreuse beanie is a bit smaller compared to the other pompom. I made 2 hats and switch-swapped the pompoms for some contrast-fun. This way the bigger pompom could be attached to the bigger hat.
This beanie is made sideways in turned rows, then slip stitched (or seamed) to form a tube. Short rows shape the crown of hat. Turning chains do not count as a stitch.

In order to check gauge, begin working hat directions, and check gauge when working Row 4. Continue to monitor gauge, and/or try on your head after working the slip stitch seam to check fit before fastening off. Adjust hook size if needed. Because the yarn is so thick, and there is a big size difference between hooks this large, you may need to crochet a bit tighter or looser than you normally would in order to match gauge and/or adjust hat size. 

Directions for hat begin here:
Ch 17.
Row 1: Beginning with the 2nd ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, yo-sl-st into each chain -16 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 12 sts leaving last 4 sts un-worked- 12 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 12 sts- 12 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 12 sts, modified yo-sl-st blo (this joins the end of short row to working row below to make short row end less noticeable-see photos further down the page), yo-sl-st blo in next 3 sts of row below -16 sts.

To make the modified yo-sl-st blo, see photos below.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 16 sts.
Rows 6-25 (6-29): Repeat Rows 2-5 five (six) more times.
Rows 26-28 (30-32): Repeat Rows 2-4 once again, ending at top of hat.

There are two options to seam the hat: crocheting a slip stitch seam OR hand sewing with a whip-stitch. Crocheting is faster and creates less of a gap between ridges of stitch pattern, however it does create a little bit of an indentation along the seaming line. Hand sewing makes a flatter seam, however it takes longer and there is a slightly wider gap between ridges in hat.

Crocheted Seam:
Ch 1, turn as if to work another row.
Fold hat so that foundation chain is directly behind last row worked. Working through the blo of the row in front (last row worked) and the flo of the row behind (foundation chain), Sl st through both edges at the same time to seam hat.
Fasten off. Turn hat so that sl st seam in on the inside of hat.

Hand-Sewing the Seam:
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. The last row you worked is a Right Side row. With Right Side facing, butt up foundation edge to edge of last row worked. Using Yarn tail and yarn needle, whip stitch edges together as shown in photo below.

Closing top of hat:
Thread a yarn needle with a new piece of yarn and weave needle through the top edge of hat, catching each of the “v’s” and also catching a stitch between each of the “v’s” as shown in the photo below. Pull tight to close top of hat.

Finishing
Weave in all ends. It is best to use yarn needle to split through the yarn strands when weaving tails in place. Block.

Pompom
Cut 2 pieces of embroidery floss or thin yarn to 18” and set aside. Wrap yarn loosely around piece of 3.5” cardboard about 40-50 times (or until you run out of yarn). Before removing loops from cardboard, tie each 18” piece of floss/yarn tightly around loops near center of cardboard (one on each side of the cardboard). Carefully slide loops off cardboard and tie one of the same 2 pieces of yarn around the center of the loops, this time around both sides- make sure you tie a very tight knot. Use scissors to cut all of the loops of the pom-pom, being careful not to cut either of the two longer strands that were used to tie the pom-pom together. Fluff pom-pom, and trim ends of pom-pom into a nicely shaped ball. Using yarn needle and long strands of floss/yarn, attach pom-pom to top of hat. Weave in ends.

See? Wasn’t that fun? I thought so.

Notorious RBG Cowl

This is my tribute to the late, great RBG. She was a powerful force.
Wanna crochet your own? Well, the directions are all here-for free!

Materials
We Crochet Palette (fingering weight yarn) 100%Peruvian Highland Wool, 231 yds/50g; 1 skein each of Rainforest Heather (MC) and Mist (CC). You may need to unravel your swatch in order to have enough yarn.

Tools
Size C (2.75mm) and Size D (3.25mm) Hook (or sizes needed to obtain gauge)
Stitch marker
Tapestry/yarn needle

Gauge
One stitch repeat of Chart B worked with larger hook measures 1 5/8” across Round 1, and 2 1/4” across Round 22. Rounds 1-22 of chart = 4.75” tall. (See notes).

Finished Measurements
Cowl measures 20” in circumference at top edge, 32” in circumference at bottom edge, and 9 1/4” tall.

Special Stitches
Extended single crochet (esc): Insert hook into next st, yo and pull up loop, yo and pull through just one loop, yo and pull through two loops.
Working through front loops only: Instead of working under both loops like normal, work under only the front loops (leaving the back loops free).

Working from the colorwork chart
On stitch before color change, work last YO with new color. Carry Color not in use along the top edge of work and crochet around it (encasing it) as you work. Make sure that the yarn you are carrying does not constrict your stitches. Every few stitches after a color change, pull on the end of the carried yarn, so that you know it is not too loose, then, pull on the fabric so that you know it is not too tight. When you need to change colors drop the old color and pick up the new color. Always drop the darker color to the back, and the lighter color to the front, to avoid tangling the yarn. Always read chart from bottom to top and right to left if right-handed (or left to right if left handed).

What’s up with the swirly boxes?
The swirly boxes in Chart B are a placeholder- they are not a stitch. Skip over the swirly boxes when reading the chart; DO NOT skip a stitch in your cowl. When you need to make an increase, work 2 esc sts into the working st. For example, in Round 6 of chart B, work two CC esc into the first st of each repeat. You will also need to work one CC and one MC into the 7th st of repeat. Likewise, when working Round 19 of Chart B of chart, work one CC esc and one MC esc in 2nd st of each rep. You will also need to work one MC and one CC in 7th stitch of Repeat.

Notes
Making a swatch of the colorwork is the best way to know if your cowl will be the right size. If you can’t stand making swatches (I hear ya) then read on ahead for other ways to check your gauge. Also: you may need to unravel your swatch in order to have enough yarn.

To make a color work gauge swatch: Ch 19 with larger hook. Change to smaller hook. Beg with second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, esc in next 18 sts. Place st marker in first esc of row. Being careful not to twist ch, bring marked stitch next to last st worked. Beginning with marked st esc in each st around. Continue to work in the round without joins (in a spiral). Change to larger hook. Work Rounds 1-22 of Chart B in esc for 3 repeats. Flatten and block swatch so that one repeat can be measured. One stitch repeat measures 1 5/8” in round 1 of colorwork, and 2 1/4” in Round 22. Colorwork rounds 1-22 measure 4.75”.

If you are a gauge cheater, please pay special attention to the following tips: After working Round 4 of Cowl directions, check to see if top edge of cowl measures about 20” in circumference. Once you determine the correct hook size for the top edge of cowl, switch to one size larger for colorwork. Pay attention to gauge after switching to colorwork. It should remain the same (not constrict or stretch out previous rounds). It is common for color work gauge to be worked slightly tighter than non-colorwork stitches. (This is why a larger hook is used for colorwork section). However, since everyone crochets differently it is also possible for the opposite to be true.

Cowl is worked in the round without joins from the top down. Cowl features a self-hem at the top and bottom edges.

Directions
With larger hook and MC, ch 109. (Using a larger hook here allows the cowl to stretch).
Change to smaller hook.
Set-up row: Beg with second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain esc in next 108 sts. Place st marker in first esc of row.
Round 1: Being careful not to twist ch, bring marked stitch next to last st worked. Beginning with marked st esc in each st around. Continue to work in the round without joins (in a spiral).
Rounds 2-4: Esc around -108 sts. Use stitch marker to keep track of beginning of rounds.

Round 5 (self-hem round pictured above): Fold edge of work in half holding foundation chain directly behind working round. Working through both edges at the same time, esc around -108 sts.
Do not fasten off. Change to larger hook in preparation for colorwork.
Rounds 6-10: Continuing in esc, work Rounds 1-5 from Chart A. Chart will be repeated three times each round. (See notes about working from a chart.)
Cut CC yarn.
Change to smaller hook in preparation for working solid color.
Rounds 11-14: Work 4 Rounds of esc.
Change to larger hook in preparation for colorwork.
Rounds 15-40: Continuing in Esc, work Rounds 1-26 from Chart B. Chart will be repeated 12 times around cowl. Note that there are increases on round 6 and round 19. There are 132 sts after working Round 6 of chart, and 156 sts after working Round 19. Cut MC yarn.
Continue using larger hook to further enlarge bottom of cowl.
Rounds 41-42: Continuing with CC yarn, Work 2 rounds of esc.
Round 43: Next round (hem-preparation round): Esc around through front loops only (see notes).
Rounds 44-47: Work 4 more rounds of esc
Above photo shows self hem in progress (through both loops as normal).

Last Round (self hem pictured above): fold edge of work in half with un-used loops (created during hem preparation round) directly behind working round. Working through back loops of working round and at the same time through un-used loops (from hem-prep round) Sl st around. Note: take care to keep sl sts loose enough that bottom edge of cowl is not constricted and can still stretch.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.