Patterns

Knitting with Warm Fuzzies: the Jude Hat

Knitting with Warm Fuzzies: theJude Hat

One thing I really love about being a craft designer is that I get new-to-me yarns shipped to my house pretty frequently. I love all yarn, I really do, but every once in a while I get to use a yarn that is so yarn-tastic that I have to squeal a little bit when I squish it. (If you are a yarnie like me- I know you know what I mean- you just can’t help but squish it a little bit- it’s basically a yarn-hug. Even my friend Karen who hates hugging probably secretly squishes her yarn when she gets a really good skein). Anyway when I made the Jude hat I got to use the Hudson + West yarn Weld, and I squealed a little bit when I pulled the yarn out of the package, (which by the way was a compostable bag). This company is so thoughtful- they produce such beautiful yarns, in my favorite colors that are completely made in the U.S. (which is pretty rare) in a sustainable way, and they treat designers really well- curating some really fantastic pattern collections! Whew!! So basically I got to knit with a skein full of warm fuzzies.

This hat was an absolute pleasure to knit up- with its easy-to-memorize cable stitch pattern and folded-double ribbing, you can keep your noggin warm while looking ever-so-rustic. If you want to check out the Jude pattern- it is available over here on Ravelry, or over here on the Hudson + West website.

Crochet is my Bag

Check out my most recent crocheted bags!

I was inspired by ye olde T.V. test pattern for this cheeky messenger-style bag. It seems like it would be hard to have a bad day while carrying this bag around- it’s just so silly!

The pattern is free over here on the We Crochet Website!

And the Jubilee Purse was just me havin’ some fun with crafting flair. It has it all- embroidery, pom-poms, tassels, fringe, beads and a braided strap. I wanted to pack all the techniques into one cute little purse. Pattern available over here on the Interweave website.

Even though these bags are totally different styles, they are both very me. I’m definitely keeping these samples for myself 🙂

Yep- crochet is definitely my bag!

Blink Beanie

Sometimes after finishing a project that used a bunch of brain-power I just wanna coast a bit through my next project. It still has to be fun and exciting, mind you, but it can’t involve much thinking. This hat checks all the boxes, and best of all goes from hook to head in less than one movie. Did you hear that procrastinators? You can still make this a handmade holiday!

I had a hook and two skeins of yarn, then I blinked and I had a hat.

If you’ve ever crocheted with a super bulky yarn before, you probably know that your work can get really stiff really quick. You can avoid this problem by going up a few hook sizes for added drape… but then you have sizable holes between your stitches and HEY some of us live in Minnesota. We can’t be walking around with big holes in our hats in the wintertime! So I did a LOT of swatching to find the perfect chunky-yarn stitch pattern: the yarn-over-slip-stitch through the back loop. OMG I am so totally in looooove with this stitch. It’s stretchy, returns back to shape remarkably well, and has enough drape to make a hat- not a helmet– when worked up tightly enough to avoid the big-hole blues. YUSSSSS!

Okay I know the name of this stitch pattern has a lot going on, but I promise it’s super easy! This is an advanced-beginner level project, but for you seasoned crocheters out there: you won’t get bored. You’ll be like: oh cool, a chunky hat! Oh this is fun- a new stitch- and it really is stretchy, just like Brenda said it would be! Oh interesting- there are short rows to shape the top! And wheeeeeee! it’s done. Now I need to make another one. Because it’s that fun! (Well that was what happened to me anyway).

So here ya go- all of the directions are right here!

Materials
Approximately 88 yds of super bulky weight yarn. I used We Crochet Tuff Puff: 100% Wool, 44 yds/100g; 2 skeins per hat, shown in colors Chartreuse #28058 and Cactus Blossom #28057 (See notes regarding pom-pom yardage).

About 1 yard of embroidery floss (or thin yarn) in similar color for pom-pom tie

Tools
Size P (11.50 mm) hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Tapestry/yarn needle
3.5” piece of cardboard (for pompom)

Gauge
6 sts and 6 rows =4” in yo-sl-st blo patt.
OR: Work hat directions through Row 4. Piece measures 10” wide and 2.75” tall including foundation chain (see photos)

Finished Measurements
Hat measures 18.75 (21.25)” in circumference, and 10” tall. Chartreuse hat (21.25”) was modeled on 22” head.

Special Stitches
Working into the bottom of the chain: work under the horizontal dashes (directly opposite the “v”s that you normally work into).

Yo-sl-st: Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up loop and then pull loop through both loops on hook (1 yo-sl-st made).Working through back loops only: Instead of working under both loops like normal, work under only the back loops (leaving the front loops free).

Working through back loops only (blo): Instead of working under both loops like normal, work under only the back loops (leaving the front loops free).

Abbreviations:
Blo= back loop only
Ch= chain
Sl st= slip stitch
St(s)= stitch(es)
Yo = yarn over
Yo-sl-st = yarn over slip stitch (see Special stitches above)

Notes:
2 skeins of Tuff Puff are enough for one hat (including pompom), however if you want a contrasting pompom, you will need 2 skeins of main color and additional yarn for the contrasting pom pom (aprox 16 yds). The larger size hat will have a slightly smaller pompom as there are fewer leftovers after making the hat. The Chartreuse hat pictured is the larger size and the Cactus Blossom hat is the smaller size. This means that the pompom made from the leftovers of the Chartreuse beanie is a bit smaller compared to the other pompom. I made 2 hats and switch-swapped the pompoms for some contrast-fun. This way the bigger pompom could be attached to the bigger hat.
This beanie is made sideways in turned rows, then slip stitched (or seamed) to form a tube. Short rows shape the crown of hat. Turning chains do not count as a stitch.

In order to check gauge, begin working hat directions, and check gauge when working Row 4. Continue to monitor gauge, and/or try on your head after working the slip stitch seam to check fit before fastening off. Adjust hook size if needed. Because the yarn is so thick, and there is a big size difference between hooks this large, you may need to crochet a bit tighter or looser than you normally would in order to match gauge and/or adjust hat size.

Directions for hat begin here:
Ch 17.
Row 1: Beginning with the 2nd ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, yo-sl-st into each chain -16 sts.

Photo above shows where to begin working into bottom of chain.

This shows the first yo-st-st in process: all that remains is to continue pulling through the other two loops on hook.

After the first row is complete it should look like this.

Stylus shows where to insert hook at beginning of Row 2 (into the back loop).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 12 sts leaving last 4 sts un-worked- 12 sts.

After Row 2 is completed (leave last 4 sts un-worked).

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 12 sts- 12 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 12 sts, modified yo-sl-st blo (this joins the end of short row to working row below to make short row end less noticeable-see photos further down the page), yo-sl-st blo in next 3 sts of row below -16 sts.

Checking row gauge during Row 4- just before working the modified yo-sl-st.

Checking stitch gauge during Row 4- just before working the modified yo-sl-st.

To make the modified yo-sl-st blo, see photos below.

Insert hook through row below as indicated here by stylus. Yo, then pull up loop…

then insert hook through back loop of stitch from 2 rows below, yo…

and pull through all loops on hook.
(One modified yo-sl-st blo made.)

After completing Row 4 piece should look like this.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, yo-sl-st blo in next 16 sts.
Rows 6-25 (6-29): Repeat Rows 2-5 five (six) more times.
Rows 26-28 (30-32): Repeat Rows 2-4 once again, ending at top of hat.

There are two options to seam the hat: crocheting a slip stitch seam OR hand sewing with a whip-stitch. Crocheting is faster and creates less of a gap between ridges of stitch pattern, however it does create a little bit of an indentation along the seaming line. Hand sewing makes a flatter seam, however it takes longer and there is a slightly wider gap between ridges in hat.

The above photo allows you to compare seaming techniques. The chartreuse hat has a slip-stitch crocheted seam, whereas the Cactus Blossom hat has a hand stitched seam.

Crocheted Seam:
Ch 1, turn as if to work another row.
Fold hat so that foundation chain is directly behind last row worked. Working through the blo of the row in front (last row worked) and the flo of the row behind (foundation chain), Sl st through both edges at the same time to seam hat.
Fasten off. Turn hat so that sl st seam in on the inside of hat.

Photo shows beginning of crocheted seam.

Hand-Sewing the Seam:
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. The last row you worked is a Right Side row. With Right Side facing, butt up foundation edge to edge of last row worked. Using Yarn tail and yarn needle, whip stitch edges together as shown in photo below.

Closing top of hat:
Thread a yarn needle with a new piece of yarn and weave needle through the top edge of hat, catching each of the “v’s” and also catching a stitch between each of the “v’s” as shown in the photo below. Pull tight to close top of hat.

Showing the closing of the top of the hat. Notice how needle goes through one leg of each of the “v’s” and also catches the stitches between the “v’s”.

Finishing
Weave in all ends. It is best to use yarn needle to split through the yarn strands when weaving tails in place. Block.

Blocking tip: Wet block your hat over a balloon balanced on a mug. This creates a nice shape without crease lines. Inflate the balloon to a size smaller than your head- it shouldn’t stretch the hat at all.

Re-shaping the top of hat: squish it and pat it into place while it is still wet to reduce the appearance of holes near short row ends.

Pompom
Cut 2 pieces of embroidery floss or thin yarn to 18” and set aside. Wrap yarn loosely around piece of 3.5” cardboard about 40-50 times (or until you run out of yarn). Before removing loops from cardboard, tie each 18” piece of floss/yarn tightly around loops near center of cardboard (one on each side of the cardboard). Carefully slide loops off cardboard and tie one of the same 2 pieces of yarn around the center of the loops, this time around both sides- make sure you tie a very tight knot. Use scissors to cut all of the loops of the pom-pom, being careful not to cut either of the two longer strands that were used to tie the pom-pom together. Fluff pom-pom, and trim ends of pom-pom into a nicely shaped ball. Using yarn needle and long strands of floss/yarn, attach pom-pom to top of hat. Weave in ends.

See? Wasn’t that fun? I thought so.

Hugging You From Over Here

Hugging You from Over Here

Feeling a bit isolated lately? Well this hat’s for you. My hope is that people will make and use this hat to virtually hug everyone. Use it when you Facetime, when you get delivery, or make one and send it to your loved one. Feel the hugs.

Materials
Knit Picks Swish (100% FineSuperwash Merino Wool; 123 yd [113 m]/50 g [1.75 oz]) CYCA#3: # 24313 cobblestone heather, 2 skeins (each size hat). Note: you will only need a portion of the 2nd skein. Total estimated yardage: 155 (165, 180) yds of MC per hat.

Knit Picks Mighty Stitch (20% Superwash Wool, 80% Acrylic; 208 yd [190 m]/50 g [3.5 oz]) CYCA#4: # 1702 pucker, 1 skein each size. Total estimated yardage: 160 yds of CC per hat including big pompom.

Tools
Size 4 (3.5 mm): 16″ circular needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)
Stitch Marker
Tapestry needle
Piece of cardboard that measures about 5” wide (for pompon)

Gauge
23 sts and 32 rounds = 4″ in stockinette stitch. Use any size needles that give you correct gauge. Note: gauge is intentionally a little bit firmer than usual to create a nice canvas for the duplicate stitch.

Finished Measurements
17.75 (19, 20.25)” brim circumference, 19.5 (21, 22.5)” body of hat circumference and 9 (9.5, 10)” tall after blocking; shown in body circumference size 21″. For best fit, make hat with body size that measures from 0” to 1” smaller than your head circumference.

Notes
This Hat is worked in the round from the bottom up, beginning with a 2 x 2 ribbing, and changing to stockinette stitch. Words are added later using duplicate stitch. If you prefer to use stranded knitting, begin working from the chart on Round 4 of “Body of Hat” directions (stockinette section). I used a worsted weight yarn for duplicate stitch, because I thought it would help the letters stand out more, but a dk would work well too.
When working crown, change to dpns when necessary.

Directions

Brim
With circular needle, CO 112 (120, 128) sts. Being careful not to twist, join to work in the round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.
Rounds 1-10: [K2, p2] around -112 (120, 128) sts.
Do not cut yarn.

Body of Hat
Knit 32 rounds.

Crown Shaping:
Work for size L only:
Round 1: [K2tog, k14] 8 times -120 sts.
Rounds 2-4: Knit all sts.

Work for sizes M (L) only:
Round 1(5): [K2tog, k13] 8 times -112 sts.
Rounds 2-4 (6-8): Knit all sts.

Work for all sizes:
Round 1 (5, 9): [K2tog, k12] 8 times-104 sts.
Rounds 2-4 (6-8, 10-12): Knit all sts.
Round 5 (9, 13): [K2tog, k11] 8 times-96 sts.
All Even Rounds through Round 24 (28, 32): Knit all sts.
Round 7 (11, 15): [k2tog, k10] 8 times -88 sts.
Round 9 (13, 17): [k2tog, k9] 8 times -80 sts.
Round 11 (15, 19): [k2tog, k8] 8 times -72 sts.
Round 13 (17, 21): [k2tog, k7] 8 times -64 sts.
Round 15 (19, 23): [k2tog, k6] 8 times -56 sts.
Round 17 (21, 25): [k2tog, k5] 8 times -48 sts.
Round 19 (23, 27): [k2tog, k4] 8 times -40 sts.
Round 21 (25, 29): [k2tog, k3] 8 times -32 sts.
Round 23 (27, 31): [k2tog, k2] 8 times -24 sts.
Round 25 (29, 33): [k2tog, k1] 8 times -16 sts.
Cut yarn, using tapestry needle, weave yarn tail through remaining 16 sts and pull tight to close hole in top of hat.

Finishing
Weave in ends. Use CC and tapestry needle to work chart, using duplicate stitch. Row 1 of chart should begin in round 4 of “Body of hat” (stockinette stitch section). Begin at bottom of chart, and work your way up toward the top. Block hat after chart is complete.

Pompom

Cut 2 pieces of CC to 24” and set aside. Wrap yarn loosely around piece of 5” cardboard about 200 times. Before removing loops from cardboard, tie each 24” piece of yarn tightly around loops near center of cardboard (one on each side of the cardboard). Carefully slide loops off cardboard and tie one of the same 2 pieces of yarn around the center of the loops, this time around both sides- make sure you tie a very tight knot. Use scissors to cut all of the loops of the pom-pom, being careful not to cut either of the two longer strands that were used to tie the pom-pom together. Fluff pom-pom, and trim ends of pom-pom into a 3.5” ball. Using yarn needle and long strands of yarn, attach pom-pom to top of hat. Weave in ends.

Anne’s Hands

Anne Merrow spun the yarn for these lovely little mitts!

I’ve had this beautiful skein of yarn sitting around in my house for more than a year, just begging to be made into something special. This skein was spun by the hands of Anne Merrow (former managing editor of Interweave Magazines, and co-founder of Long Thread Media) so not only was it beautiful but it also had a bunch of my feelings spun up into it. I am a great admirer of her both as a person, and as a champion for the fiber community. To receive yarn she made with her own two hands meant a lot to me, so it was difficult to decide what to do with it. I wanted it to become an accessory that I could wear, but with only about 125 yards to work with, I needed to use it very wisely. This design was born out of making a small amount of precious yarn into something worthy of its materials. The pattern is listed below- enjoy!

If you wanna check out Long Thread Media look-ie over here!

Materials
Approximately 125 yds of worsted weight yarn.
Two 1”-1.25” buttons (optional- 28mm LaMode style #31104 shown)
Sewing thread (and needle) if not using yarn to sew buttons on

Tools
Size F (3.75mm) and Size H (5.0mm) Hook (or sizes needed to obtain gauge)
Stitch marker
Tapestry/yarn needle

Gauge
6 sts and 13 rows of Hdc blo worked in turned rows with smaller hook = 1.5” x 4″
17 sts and 16 rounds of Hdc, ch-1 stitch pattern worked in the round with larger hook = 4 x 4″ (see notes).

Finished Measurements
Mitts measure 8” in circumference at top (finger opening) edge before sl st edging, and 7” after edging is worked, 8” in circumference at wrist edge, and 6.75” tall (including 1.5” cuff).

Special Stitches
Working into the bottom of the chain: work under the horizontal dashes (directly opposite the “v”s that you normally work into).

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

Blo= back loop only
Ch= chain
Hdc= half double crochet
Sc= single crochet
Sl st= slip stitch
St(s)= stitch(es)
Yo = yarn over

Notes
Ribbed cuff is made in turned rows, then slip stitched to form a tube. Hand of mitten is worked in the round from the cuff up to the finger opening. This mitten is made in the round without joining. Turning chains (in the ribbed cuff) do not count as a stitch. In order to check gauge, begin working cuff directions, and check gauge after working Row 13. After the correct size hook for ribbing has been established, continue with pattern, choosing a hook 2 sizes larger for body of mitten when directed to do so. Continue to monitor gauge, and/or try on your hand to determine if larger hook is correct size. Adjust hook size if needed.

Directions
Cuff
Using smaller hook, Ch 9.
Row 1: Beginning with the 2nd ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, 1 Hdc into each of the next 8 sts -8 sts.
Rows 2-22: Ch 1, turn, 1 Hdc blo into each st -8 sts. Do not fasten off.

Ch 1, turn as if to work another row. Fold cuff in half with foundation chain directly in front of last row worked. Seam cuff together by inserting hook through back loop of row in front and then back loop of row directly behind, yo and pull through both thicknesses and loop on hook to complete slip stitch. Continue making slip stitches through the back loop of each layer across row. Do not fasten off. Turn right side out. Slip stitch seam will be on inside (wrong side) of mitten.

Body of mitten
Using stitch markers, divide the top edge of cuff (the edge of the cuff where the working loop is) into 4 equal sections.
Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), working into the top edge of the cuff: 9 sc in 1st marked section, 8 sc into 2nd section, 8 sc in 3rd marked section, 8 sc into 4th marked section, for a total of 33 sc around, do not join.
Change to larger hook. Use stitch marker to keep track of beginning of each round (place in first Sc of each round).
Round 2: [(Sc, ch 1) into next sc, skip next sc] 16 times, (sc, ch 1) into last Sc of round -34 sts.
Round 3: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 8 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 8 ch-1 spaces -36 sts.
Round 4: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -36 sts.
Round 5: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 8 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 9 ch-1 spaces -38 sts.
Round 6: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -38 sts.
Round 7: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 7 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 11 ch-1 spaces -40 sts.
Round 8: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -40 sts.
Round 9: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 7 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 12 ch-1 spaces -42 sts.
Round 10: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -42 sts.
Round 11: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 6 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 14 ch-1 spaces -44 sts.
Round 12-13: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -44 sts.
Round 14 (repositioning round): (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 15 ch-1 spaces ending directly opposite the thumb gusset, leaving remaining sts un-worked. Move beginning stitch marker to first sc of next round to establish new beginnings of rounds.

Round 15 (thumbhole round): (Sc, ch 1) into each of the next 9 ch-1 spaces, place stitch marker in bottom of last ch-1 made, skip next 4 ch-1 spaces (for thumbhole), (sc, ch 1) into each of following 9 ch-1 spaces -36 sts not including sts for thumb.
Round 16: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 8 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1) in next ch st (note: the sc is made into the chain here – not into the space below the chain), (sc, ch 1) into each of the next 9 ch 1 spaces -36 sts.
Rounds 17-19: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space around -36 sts.
Round 20: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 15 ch-1 spaces (ending at pinky-finger side of the finger opening), sl st in next Ch-1 space, leave remaining sts un-worked. Do not fasten off.

Change to smaller hook. Sl st through back loop all the way around top edge of mitt. Fasten off.

Thumb
Using larger hook, pull up loop in first skipped ch-1 space, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), beginning with same ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) into each of the 4 skipped ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1) in side edge of stitch where thumb meets hand, (sc, ch-1) into bottom of marked ch-1 stitch, sc in side edge of stitch where thumb meets hand (note: do not make a ch-1 stitch here). Change to smaller hook, sl st into blo of each st around. Fasten off.

Finishing
Block, sew buttons to cuffs as shown in photos.