Archives for November 2020

Hugging You From Over Here

Hugging You from Over Here

Feeling a bit isolated lately? Well this hat’s for you. My hope is that people will make and use this hat to virtually hug everyone. Use it when you Facetime, when you get delivery, or make one and send it to your loved one. Feel the hugs.

Materials
Knit Picks Swish (100% FineSuperwash Merino Wool; 123 yd [113 m]/50 g [1.75 oz]) CYCA#3: # 24313 cobblestone heather, 2 skeins (each size hat). Note: you will only need a portion of the 2nd skein. Total estimated yardage: 155 (165, 180) yds of MC per hat.

Knit Picks Mighty Stitch (20% Superwash Wool, 80% Acrylic; 208 yd [190 m]/50 g [3.5 oz]) CYCA#4: # 1702 pucker, 1 skein each size. Total estimated yardage: 160 yds of CC per hat including big pompom.

Tools
Size 4 (3.5 mm): 16″ circular needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn)
Stitch Marker
Tapestry needle
Piece of cardboard that measures about 5” wide (for pompon)

Gauge
23 sts and 32 rounds = 4″ in stockinette stitch. Use any size needles that give you correct gauge. Note: gauge is intentionally a little bit firmer than usual to create a nice canvas for the duplicate stitch.

Finished Measurements
17.75 (19, 20.25)” brim circumference, 19.5 (21, 22.5)” body of hat circumference and 9 (9.5, 10)” tall after blocking; shown in body circumference size 21″. For best fit, make hat with body size that measures from 0” to 1” smaller than your head circumference.

Notes
This Hat is worked in the round from the bottom up, beginning with a 2 x 2 ribbing, and changing to stockinette stitch. Words are added later using duplicate stitch. If you prefer to use stranded knitting, begin working from the chart on Round 4 of “Body of Hat” directions (stockinette section). I used a worsted weight yarn for duplicate stitch, because I thought it would help the letters stand out more, but a dk would work well too.
When working crown, change to dpns when necessary.

Directions

Brim
With circular needle, CO 112 (120, 128) sts. Being careful not to twist, join to work in the round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.
Rounds 1-10: [K2, p2] around -112 (120, 128) sts.
Do not cut yarn.

Body of Hat
Knit 32 rounds.

Crown Shaping:
Work for size L only:
Round 1: [K2tog, k14] 8 times -120 sts.
Rounds 2-4: Knit all sts.

Work for sizes M (L) only:
Round 1(5): [K2tog, k13] 8 times -112 sts.
Rounds 2-4 (6-8): Knit all sts.

Work for all sizes:
Round 1 (5, 9): [K2tog, k12] 8 times-104 sts.
Rounds 2-4 (6-8, 10-12): Knit all sts.
Round 5 (9, 13): [K2tog, k11] 8 times-96 sts.
All Even Rounds through Round 24 (28, 32): Knit all sts.
Round 7 (11, 15): [k2tog, k10] 8 times -88 sts.
Round 9 (13, 17): [k2tog, k9] 8 times -80 sts.
Round 11 (15, 19): [k2tog, k8] 8 times -72 sts.
Round 13 (17, 21): [k2tog, k7] 8 times -64 sts.
Round 15 (19, 23): [k2tog, k6] 8 times -56 sts.
Round 17 (21, 25): [k2tog, k5] 8 times -48 sts.
Round 19 (23, 27): [k2tog, k4] 8 times -40 sts.
Round 21 (25, 29): [k2tog, k3] 8 times -32 sts.
Round 23 (27, 31): [k2tog, k2] 8 times -24 sts.
Round 25 (29, 33): [k2tog, k1] 8 times -16 sts.
Cut yarn, using tapestry needle, weave yarn tail through remaining 16 sts and pull tight to close hole in top of hat.

Finishing
Weave in ends. Use CC and tapestry needle to work chart, using duplicate stitch. Row 1 of chart should begin in round 4 of “Body of hat” (stockinette stitch section). Begin at bottom of chart, and work your way up toward the top. Block hat after chart is complete.

Pompom

Cut 2 pieces of CC to 24” and set aside. Wrap yarn loosely around piece of 5” cardboard about 200 times. Before removing loops from cardboard, tie each 24” piece of yarn tightly around loops near center of cardboard (one on each side of the cardboard). Carefully slide loops off cardboard and tie one of the same 2 pieces of yarn around the center of the loops, this time around both sides- make sure you tie a very tight knot. Use scissors to cut all of the loops of the pom-pom, being careful not to cut either of the two longer strands that were used to tie the pom-pom together. Fluff pom-pom, and trim ends of pom-pom into a 3.5” ball. Using yarn needle and long strands of yarn, attach pom-pom to top of hat. Weave in ends.

WeCrochet Podcast Interview: Advice and Amigurumi

WeCrochet Podcast Interview:

Advice and Amigurumi

I’ve listened to every single episode of the WeCrochet podcast so naturally, when Heather Mann asked me if I’d like to be on it, I was thrilled! She was wondering if I would like to talk about my little amigurumi obsession and I was like “talk about crocheted critters with Heather Mann? Heck yeah!”

I had a great time talking to her- check it out! You’ll also find links to my free amigurumi unicorn and Purr-maid patterns on their website too 🙂

Obscure Skills

Storey’s Curious Compendium of Obscure and Practical Skills

I received a very heavy box in the mail the other day, and after thinking to myself “that’s weird… I don’t remember ordering anything”, I saw who had sent it and got really excited. I had totally forgotten that I was asked to contribute to this compendium of obscure and practical skills. I opened up the box, pulled out this giant book and started leafing through it. Once I started, I. Could. Not. Stop. I mean, besides the things I was expecting to see (like patching your clothes, canning, knitting a hat, making kombucha, etc), there was SO MUCH other interesting stuff that I never would have anticipated. Like how to make a tincture, making biodiesel, how to speak chicken, and my favorite: Dismount a Horse in an Emergency.

For people like me, who love the world of DIY, this book is AMAZING. It makes you feel like you can do anything. I will probably never have a horse-emergency, but if I do I’ll be so glad I read this book.

Okay, but for real- I am so proud to be a part of this book. And in case you are wondering- my contribution was a pair of crocheted earrings. I got so excited about everything else- I almost forgot to mention it!

Here it is over on Amazon– check it out!

Anne’s Hands

Anne Merrow spun the yarn for these lovely little mitts!

I’ve had this beautiful skein of yarn sitting around in my house for more than a year, just begging to be made into something special. This skein was spun by the hands of Anne Merrow (former managing editor of Interweave Magazines, and co-founder of Long Thread Media) so not only was it beautiful but it also had a bunch of my feelings spun up into it. I am a great admirer of her both as a person, and as a champion for the fiber community. To receive yarn she made with her own two hands meant a lot to me, so it was difficult to decide what to do with it. I wanted it to become an accessory that I could wear, but with only about 125 yards to work with, I needed to use it very wisely. This design was born out of making a small amount of precious yarn into something worthy of its materials. The pattern is listed below- enjoy!

If you wanna check out Long Thread Media look-ie over here!

Materials
Approximately 125 yds of worsted weight yarn.
Two 1”-1.25” buttons (optional- 28mm LaMode style #31104 shown)
Sewing thread (and needle) if not using yarn to sew buttons on

Tools
Size F (3.75mm) and Size H (5.0mm) Hook (or sizes needed to obtain gauge)
Stitch marker
Tapestry/yarn needle

Gauge
6 sts and 13 rows of Hdc blo worked in turned rows with smaller hook = 1.5” x 4″
17 sts and 16 rounds of Hdc, ch-1 stitch pattern worked in the round with larger hook = 4 x 4″ (see notes).

Finished Measurements
Mitts measure 8” in circumference at top (finger opening) edge before sl st edging, and 7” after edging is worked, 8” in circumference at wrist edge, and 6.75” tall (including 1.5” cuff).

Special Stitches
Working into the bottom of the chain: work under the horizontal dashes (directly opposite the “v”s that you normally work into).

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

Blo= back loop only
Ch= chain
Hdc= half double crochet
Sc= single crochet
Sl st= slip stitch
St(s)= stitch(es)
Yo = yarn over

Notes
Ribbed cuff is made in turned rows, then slip stitched to form a tube. Hand of mitten is worked in the round from the cuff up to the finger opening. This mitten is made in the round without joining. Turning chains (in the ribbed cuff) do not count as a stitch. In order to check gauge, begin working cuff directions, and check gauge after working Row 13. After the correct size hook for ribbing has been established, continue with pattern, choosing a hook 2 sizes larger for body of mitten when directed to do so. Continue to monitor gauge, and/or try on your hand to determine if larger hook is correct size. Adjust hook size if needed.

Directions
Cuff
Using smaller hook, Ch 9.
Row 1: Beginning with the 2nd ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, 1 Hdc into each of the next 8 sts -8 sts.
Rows 2-22: Ch 1, turn, 1 Hdc blo into each st -8 sts. Do not fasten off.

Ch 1, turn as if to work another row. Fold cuff in half with foundation chain directly in front of last row worked. Seam cuff together by inserting hook through back loop of row in front and then back loop of row directly behind, yo and pull through both thicknesses and loop on hook to complete slip stitch. Continue making slip stitches through the back loop of each layer across row. Do not fasten off. Turn right side out. Slip stitch seam will be on inside (wrong side) of mitten.

Body of mitten
Using stitch markers, divide the top edge of cuff (the edge of the cuff where the working loop is) into 4 equal sections.
Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), working into the top edge of the cuff: 9 sc in 1st marked section, 8 sc into 2nd section, 8 sc in 3rd marked section, 8 sc into 4th marked section, for a total of 33 sc around, do not join.
Change to larger hook. Use stitch marker to keep track of beginning of each round (place in first Sc of each round).
Round 2: [(Sc, ch 1) into next sc, skip next sc] 16 times, (sc, ch 1) into last Sc of round -34 sts.
Round 3: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 8 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 8 ch-1 spaces -36 sts.
Round 4: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -36 sts.
Round 5: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 8 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 9 ch-1 spaces -38 sts.
Round 6: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -38 sts.
Round 7: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 7 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 11 ch-1 spaces -40 sts.
Round 8: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -40 sts.
Round 9: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 7 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 12 ch-1 spaces -42 sts.
Round 10: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -42 sts.
Round 11: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 6 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into next ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) in next 14 ch-1 spaces -44 sts.
Round 12-13: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space -44 sts.
Round 14 (repositioning round): (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 15 ch-1 spaces ending directly opposite the thumb gusset, leaving remaining sts un-worked. Move beginning stitch marker to first sc of next round to establish new beginnings of rounds.

Round 15 (thumbhole round): (Sc, ch 1) into each of the next 9 ch-1 spaces, place stitch marker in bottom of last ch-1 made, skip next 4 ch-1 spaces (for thumbhole), (sc, ch 1) into each of following 9 ch-1 spaces -36 sts not including sts for thumb.
Round 16: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 8 ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1) in next ch st (note: the sc is made into the chain here – not into the space below the chain), (sc, ch 1) into each of the next 9 ch 1 spaces -36 sts.
Rounds 17-19: (Sc, ch 1) into each ch-1 space around -36 sts.
Round 20: (Sc, ch 1) into each of next 15 ch-1 spaces (ending at pinky-finger side of the finger opening), sl st in next Ch-1 space, leave remaining sts un-worked. Do not fasten off.

Change to smaller hook. Sl st through back loop all the way around top edge of mitt. Fasten off.

Thumb
Using larger hook, pull up loop in first skipped ch-1 space, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), beginning with same ch-1 space, (sc, ch 1) into each of the 4 skipped ch-1 spaces, (sc, ch 1) in side edge of stitch where thumb meets hand, (sc, ch-1) into bottom of marked ch-1 stitch, sc in side edge of stitch where thumb meets hand (note: do not make a ch-1 stitch here). Change to smaller hook, sl st into blo of each st around. Fasten off.

Finishing
Block, sew buttons to cuffs as shown in photos.

The Notorious RBG Cowl

Notorious RBG Cowl

This is my tribute to the late, great RBG. She was a powerful force.
Wanna crochet your own? Well, the directions are all here-for free!

Materials
We Crochet Palette (fingering weight yarn) 100%Peruvian Highland Wool, 231 yds/50g; 1 skein each of Rainforest Heather (MC) and Mist (CC). You may need to unravel your swatch in order to have enough yarn.

Tools
Size C (2.75mm) and Size D (3.25mm) Hook (or sizes needed to obtain gauge)
Stitch marker
Tapestry/yarn needle

Gauge
One stitch repeat of Chart B worked with larger hook measures 1 5/8” across Round 1, and 2 1/4” across Round 22. Rounds 1-22 of chart = 4.75” tall. (See notes).

Finished Measurements
Cowl measures 20” in circumference at top edge, 32” in circumference at bottom edge, and 9 1/4” tall.

Special Stitches
Extended single crochet (esc): Insert hook into next st, yo and pull up loop, yo and pull through just one loop, yo and pull through two loops.
Working through front loops only: Instead of working under both loops like normal, work under only the front loops (leaving the back loops free).

Working from the colorwork chart
On stitch before color change, work last YO with new color. Carry Color not in use along the top edge of work and crochet around it (encasing it) as you work. Make sure that the yarn you are carrying does not constrict your stitches. Every few stitches after a color change, pull on the end of the carried yarn, so that you know it is not too loose, then, pull on the fabric so that you know it is not too tight. When you need to change colors drop the old color and pick up the new color. Always drop the darker color to the back, and the lighter color to the front, to avoid tangling the yarn. Always read chart from bottom to top and right to left if right-handed (or left to right if left handed).

What’s up with the swirly boxes?
The swirly boxes in Chart B are a placeholder- they are not a stitch. Skip over the swirly boxes when reading the chart; DO NOT skip a stitch in your cowl. When you need to make an increase, work 2 esc sts into the working st. For example, in Round 6 of chart B, work two CC esc into the first st of each repeat. You will also need to work one CC and one MC into the 7th st of repeat. Likewise, when working Round 19 of Chart B of chart, work one CC esc and one MC esc in 2nd st of each rep. You will also need to work one MC and one CC in 7th stitch of Repeat.

CLOSE UP OF FIRST SET OF INCREASES (ROUND 6)

CLOSE UP OF SECOND SET OF INCREASES (ROUND 19)

Notes
Making a swatch of the colorwork is the best way to know if your cowl will be the right size. If you can’t stand making swatches (I hear ya) then read on ahead for other ways to check your gauge. Also: you may need to unravel your swatch in order to have enough yarn.

To make a color work gauge swatch: Ch 19 with larger hook. Change to smaller hook. Beg with second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, esc in next 18 sts. Place st marker in first esc of row. Being careful not to twist ch, bring marked stitch next to last st worked. Beginning with marked st esc in each st around. Continue to work in the round without joins (in a spiral). Change to larger hook. Work Rounds 1-22 of Chart B in esc for 3 repeats. Flatten and block swatch so that one repeat can be measured. One stitch repeat measures 1 5/8” in round 1 of colorwork, and 2 1/4” in Round 22. Colorwork rounds 1-22 measure 4.75”.

If you are a gauge cheater, please pay special attention to the following tips: After working Round 4 of Cowl directions, check to see if top edge of cowl measures about 20” in circumference. Once you determine the correct hook size for the top edge of cowl, switch to one size larger for colorwork. Pay attention to gauge after switching to colorwork. It should remain the same (not constrict or stretch out previous rounds). It is common for color work gauge to be worked slightly tighter than non-colorwork stitches. (This is why a larger hook is used for colorwork section). However, since everyone crochets differently it is also possible for the opposite to be true.

Cowl is worked in the round without joins from the top down. Cowl features a self-hem at the top and bottom edges.

Directions
With larger hook and MC, ch 109. (Using a larger hook here allows the cowl to stretch).
Change to smaller hook.
Set-up row: Beg with second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain esc in next 108 sts. Place st marker in first esc of row.
Round 1: Being careful not to twist ch, bring marked stitch next to last st worked. Beginning with marked st esc in each st around. Continue to work in the round without joins (in a spiral).
Rounds 2-4: Esc around -108 sts. Use stitch marker to keep track of beginning of rounds.

Round 5 (self-hem round pictured above): Fold edge of work in half holding foundation chain directly behind working round. Working through both edges at the same time, esc around -108 sts.
Do not fasten off. Change to larger hook in preparation for colorwork.
Rounds 6-10: Continuing in esc, work Rounds 1-5 from Chart A. Chart will be repeated three times each round. (See notes about working from a chart.)
Cut CC yarn.
Change to smaller hook in preparation for working solid color.
Rounds 11-14: Work 4 Rounds of esc.
Change to larger hook in preparation for colorwork.
Rounds 15-40: Continuing in Esc, work Rounds 1-26 from Chart B. Chart will be repeated 12 times around cowl. Note that there are increases on round 6 and round 19. There are 132 sts after working Round 6 of chart, and 156 sts after working Round 19. Cut MC yarn.
Continue using larger hook to further enlarge bottom of cowl.
Rounds 41-42: Continuing with CC yarn, Work 2 rounds of esc.
Round 43: Next round (hem-preparation round): Esc around through front loops only (see notes).
Rounds 44-47: Work 4 more rounds of esc
Above photo shows self hem in progress (through both loops as normal).

Last Round (self hem pictured above): fold edge of work in half with un-used loops (created during hem preparation round) directly behind working round. Working through back loops of working round and at the same time through un-used loops (from hem-prep round) Sl st around. Note: take care to keep sl sts loose enough that bottom edge of cowl is not constricted and can still stretch.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.